How to Change Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter (COMPLETE Guide)

How to Change Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter (COMPLETE Guide) - Government Car Auctions

How to Change Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter (COMPLETE Guide)

hey guys chrisfix here and today I’m
going to show you how to change the
transmission fluid and the transmission
filter in your car or truck in this case
we’re working on a 2001 Mazda pickup
truck it’s the same chassis as the Ford
Ranger Ford Explorer and many other
Fords and Mazdas but even if you don’t
have a Ford or Mazda this process is
going to be very similar for most makes
and models there might be little
differences here and there but just like
changing your engine oil the process is
relatively similar so after watching
this you’ll be able to change the
transmission fluid for your vehicle so
there are five main steps for changing
your automatic transmission fluid one
get the vehicle in the air and drop the
transmission pan to replace the filter
three replace the transmission pan
gasket four install the pan five add the
fluid it’s that simple so let’s get
started this job is going to be an
automatic transmission fluid change not
a flush with a flush most places use a
machine to pump out all the old fluid
and add in brand new fluid but they
don’t remove the drain pan so typically
the filter isn’t replaced with a
transmission fluid change you drop the
transmission pan so you can get access
to the filter and replace the filter
which is exactly what I want to do but
remember what the fluid change you only
remove about half of the old fluid if
you aren’t sure what to do check the
owner’s manual which will tell you if
you should change or flush the fluid in
your specific vehicle it’ll also tell
you how many miles you could go before
you need to change or flush the fluid
and finally check your transmission
fluid fluid in good condition is bright
pink but if your fluid looks black
smells burnt or has metallic specks in
it your transmission is probably damaged
and in that case do a fluid change since
it only removes half the old fluid or
just leave it alone
but don’t flush the fluid because
flushing the fluid is going to remove
all that suspended clutch material and
that could cause your transmission to
slip so now let me show you how to
change transmission fluid so you can
prevent damage to your transmission and
here are all the tools you’re going to
need as always use some gloves and
safety goggles to protect your hands and
eyes and there really aren’t many tools
that you need for this job

How to Change Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter (COMPLETE Guide) - Government Auctions Cars For Sale

Gearbox oil change

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we have a 13
millimeter ten millimeter and an
extension for our ratchet torque wrench
scraper for the gasket and also an
abrasive pad for the gasket to clean it
off a funnel and some brake clean some
towels and you’re also going to need
some type of catch can to catch all the
fluid that’s draining out and
and I like to put down a tarp or some
cardboard on the ground so I don’t get
oil all over my driveway so those are
all the tools now we need to make sure
that we’re using the correct
transmission fluid and to do so consult
your owners manual and see what fluid is
required if you look over here
Ford requires the use of merkon five now
that varies from vehicle to vehicle so
make sure you check your owners manual
because if you use the wrong fluid
you’ll cause transmission damage so for
my truck I’m using merkon five and we’re
also replacing the transmission filter
since I don’t know the last time it was
changed or if it was ever changed plus
when you get your filter it comes with a
gasket you need to seal the transmission
pan after you drain the fluid and that
just about covers everything you need to
know so let’s begin all right step one
we want to lift our vehicle so we could
drain our transmission fluid in this
case I used ramps but you could use jack
stands if you want after the vehicle is
safely lifted and the wheels are chopped
off we could slide the tarp and catch
can under the truck now we need to be
able to find where the transmission pan
is so going from the front of the car as
we move backwards you can see the front
crossmember the front differential the
oil pan the catalytic converter and then
the transmission pan now since we don’t
have a drain bolt what we’re going to do
is we’re going to do a controlled leak
to drain our fluid and what I mean by
controlled leak is we’re going to remove
the rear bolts here completely but leave
the front bolts in so our pan comes down
at an angle and then when it comes down
at an angle the fluids going to leak out
the back right into our drain pin to
remove this transmission pin there are
eighteen bolts surrounding the whole pin
so I’m going to start with the rear ones
here and loosen them all the way and
these bolts should be easy to remove
with a normal ratchet no breaker bar
needed and that’s one two three four and
five so what the rear bolts removed I
notice the drips are leaking down on the
frame and off to the side which is going
to make a mess to combat this problem
grab a piece of tinfoil which is going
to allow us the funnel it’ll leak and
prevent it from getting all over the
frame alright now let’s remove the side
bolts and the ones on the other side as
well go from side to side and now I’m
going to be using this Universal joint
extension for this tricky bolt hidden
behind the
catalytic converter right back here that
was easy enough
and as I loosen this frontside bolt a
pan should tell and there’s our
controlled spill and as that leaks out
I’m going to remove that bolt good with
most of the fluid removed I’m going to
get rid of this tin foil and then let’s
completely remove the final two bolts
and as you do this make sure you support
the transmission pan and that’s one and
that’s the other so now we can lower the
pan and this pan just simply slides out
and that’s the end of step one step two
we want to replace the filter so to
remove the filter there’s one bolt right
here it’s a ten millimeter that’s
holding this filter in so all we have to
do is remove that and that will drop out
and just like all the other bolts that
we’ve been removing this one is going to
be really easy to remove now just pull
down on the filter and it pops right out
here’s a very helpful top tip you see
all these bolts up here these bolts hold
the transmission valve body against the
transmission due to vibration over time
some of these bolts become loose and
it’s important that they’re tight
because they compress a gasket which
holds fluid pressure and that pressure
gives you crisp shifts so check this out
you see how I can turn my ratchet and
easily turn this bolt
well snug all of these bolts to eight
foot-pounds don’t over tighten them if
one’s already tight leave it because
that’s fine just move on to the next one
try to start from the middle and move
outwards in a crisscross pattern which
will seal the valve body against the
transmission and this will prevent
problems with shifting in the future and
it might even make your tranny shift
more crisp and just better overall
so with those tightened down let’s go
replace the filter so here’s our new
filter and here’s the filter we just
removed from the transmission and check
this out there’s a big crack and that’s
not good because the filter is what
sucks up the fresh fluid into the
transmission and with that hole it’s
leaking suction so it’s good that we’re
changing this out and make sure you stay
tuned to the end of the video because
we’re going to cut open this filter and
see if there’s anything inside whenever
we replace parts you want to make sure
that the parts look identical so match
them up make sure they look the same the
reason why I always say compare the new
part to the old part is because of this
eye or
a transmission filter and they sent me
this one and if we compare this well
right away we could see that it doesn’t
have that spout the spout is for my
deeper transmission pan so it could suck
up the fluid so if I installed this one
I could have caused damage if no fluid
was getting sucked up so that’s why you
always just take a few seconds and
compare the old and new parts all right
so let’s get the old one out of the way
and work on this new one for the new one
we’re going to install the o-rings and
what you want to do is you want to get
some of that transmission fluid get the
o-rings and just lube up the o-rings
small one goes here fits on just like
that and the big one snaps right on here
just like that and this is all ready to
get installed so let’s go and install it
all right back under the car let’s
install our filter all we do is line
each fitting up and push it in to CTO
ring now tighten the filter bolt down
always hand tighten first because this
prevents cross threading and once you
tighten it this gets torqued down to
eight to ten foot pounds good and step
two is complete let’s move on to step
three now we’re going to install our
brand new gasket on the oil pan but
first when you get our oil pan and
remove the old gasket now this gasket is
a rubber one so it should come off
pretty easy and if yours doesn’t come
off easy I suggest you use a plastic
scraper not a metal one a plastic one
isn’t going to gouged the metal you
could do as much as you want here and
nothing is going to happen to this metal
if you use a metal scraper then there’s
a good chance that you might get a metal
might cause a little scratch or
something and that’s enough for fluid to
seep out and over time caused a leak and
you don’t want that before we clean the
pan in most pans you’ll find a magnet
designed to remove metal filings from
the fluid and this magnet has a ton of
tiny metal pieces on it which is fine
what we don’t want to see or any big
pieces but again this looks normal so to
clean this we want to get some brake
clean and we’re going to spray it down
now I’ll be using a bucket so we can
keep everything nice and clean and just
spray down the whole thing with brake
clean all that dirt and grime is coming
right off and after we spray it down a
little bit we could take our towel and
just clean it out
alright that looks pretty good now what
we need to do is we need to clean this
mating surface here get one of these
scotch-brite pads that’s slightly
abrasive and then all you’re going to do
is clean it up you want to make sure all
the gasket material and dirt is removed
from the surface because any leftover
gasket material will cause a leak then
do a final spray to clean this up and
look at that nice and clean I also clean
the outside but as you guys know this
isn’t all I like to go overboard
primer paint now obviously you don’t
need to paint your transmission pan but
I decided it would be a good thing to do
since I have it off so now that that’s
dry let’s go install this now what we
want to do is we want to use a grease
along the edge I’m going to be using
silicone paste and what that’s going to
do is it’s going to make that surface
tacky so when you put your gasket on it
won’t move around it’ll hold it in place
so just make sure all the holes are
aligned and check this out this holds
itself in so it’s not going anywhere
normally this gasket would fall right
off but with just a little bit of grease
your life is that much easier if you
have a paper or cork gasket I recommend
using a gasket adhesive which is going
to help the gasket stick and prevent
leaks another thing I want to mention is
that we’re going to be reusing these
bolts so you want to make sure the
threads are clean you want to make sure
that there’s no gasket adhesive on here
and I just hit them with some brake
clean and all the dirt came right off
and this is all ready to get installed
so let’s go put it in before we install
the transmission pan don’t forget under
the car we also want to clean the mating
surface on the transmission so it’s
clear of any gasket material
so use your abrasive scotch brite sponge
and clean the whole perimeter if you
need use a plastic scraper to get the
remaining gasket material off but this
was pretty clean and I don’t need to use
it and with that surface clean we’re
done with step three so let’s move on to
step four for this step we’re installing
the transmission pin it’s pretty simple
just line it up and make sure you don’t
move the gasket by mistake once you get
it lined up press the pan against the
transmission so the gasket doesn’t move
and start hand tightening those bolts in
for now only hand tighten the bolts to
barely compress the gasket the order you
tighten the bolts in doesn’t matter
while you’re hand tightening them but it
will matter once we start torquing them
down in a couple of seconds so get them
all hand tight and don’t use a ratchet
this step because that’ll tighten them
too much so now we have all the bolts in
around the perimeter of our drain pan
and they’re just barely compressing the
gasket now we want to squeeze the gasket
to prevent leaks but we’re not just
going to squeeze it by tightening up the
bolts in whatever order you want to go
on a crisscross pattern for each bolt so
it compresses the gasket evenly most of
the time you want to start from the
middle and I’m going to use this bolt to
start and if it helps you I wrote down
the sequence so you know to order to go
in because I have a feeling I might lose
track of what bolt I need to tighten
next so you could always just reference
this all right let’s get the bolts
torqued down these bolts need to be
torqued around 10 to 15 foot-pounds and
I’m going to be using a crisscross
pattern like I explained before just
like how you tighten the lug nuts on a
wheel in a star pattern I’m going to
include a link to the tightening
sequence diagram in the description so
you can use that as a reference I have
to use a universal joint socket for that
hard-to-reach bolt and I’m just going to
torque it down by feel since torque
wrenches aren’t really accurate with
universal joint extensions good just two
more bolts the torque alright so
everything is all torqued down and
that’s the end of step four now we’re on
our last step step 5 let’s go filler up
with fluid now we need to figure out how
much transmission fluid we need to fill
the transmission completely but not
overfill it so to figure out how much
fluid we need to add let’s see how much
fluid we actually drained out of the
transmission and what we’re going to do
is we’re going to use one of these old
oil containers that have the markings on
the side here and with no fluid in this
container it’s going to easily tip over
so make sure you support it and
carefully fill the old oil container and
try not to make a mess like I just did
the good thing is the box will contain
the mess I made now if we take a look at
where we’re at we’re right here so
there’s three quarts there’s three and a
half quarts so we want to put three and
a half quarts in and then take our
measurement and this is a really easy
way to figure out how much fluid we
removed so now you know how much fluid
we need to add our drain pan had three
and a half quarts of fluid so we have
four bottles here each is a quart now
let’s go and fill up our transmission
you fill your transmission through the
dipstick hole and if you don’t have a
dipstick there’ll be a fill bolt
somewhere on the top of the transmission
with the funnel in place I want to add
three and
courts of transmission fluid to replace
the fluid we removed from the drain pan
once the transmission is filled remove
the funnel and put the dipstick back in
now we just need to go start the car and
then back down the race with the car off
the ramps on level ground we’re going to
shift through the different gears when I
go to each one of them and then we’re
going to let the engine run for about
two minutes three minutes let the
transmission heat up let all the fluid
circulate then we’re going to check our
fluid all right we went through the
different gears we let the engine and
transmission warm up a little bit it
should be warm enough to go check the
transmission fluid level in this vehicle
the car has to be an idle and the
transmission has to be warm for you to
check the fluid so we’ll leave the car
running and let’s go check the fluid
the fluids supposed to come up to the
batched area but it’s just barely on the
tip of the dipstick so we have to add
some more I’m going to add the other
half a quart and recheck the level after
adding that half a quart let’s see where
we’re at and this is perfect you can
clearly see the fluid is right in the
middle of the dash area beautiful
now let’s shut the engine and check for
leaks so now you want to go back under
the car real quick and just check for
leaks and be careful the exhaust is now
going to be hot but if we look here we
look around the perimeter I don’t see
any leaks so that’s a job well done so
there you go that’s an in-depth guide on
how to replace the transmission fluid
and the filter it’s easy to do and it’s
worth every penny because transmissions
are not cheap this transmission holds 10
quarts and we replaced four of those
quarts so we change that almost half the
fluid plus we got a new filter in there
and speaking of filter let’s go check
out the inside of that old filter and
here we go just pry it apart so the
outside the filter looks pretty good
let’s see if there’s anything trapped on
the inside and check this out there are
tons of small metal fragments and a
large one here so that goes to show you
how important these filters are because
you wouldn’t want these metal pieces
running through your transmission and
there we go hopefully the video is
helpful and if you aren’t subscribed
consider subscribing for new how-to
videos every week up on the screen are
related videos like how to change your
engine oil and as always I linked all
products and tools in the description so
you could easily find them

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